On the streets of Shanghai, content creator Shiyin can be seen wearing a traditional outfit from China’s Ming period. Popular on social media, she routinely shares fashion buys, beauty tips and lifestyle vlogs alongside all the latest from Gucci and Lancôme-but it’s her passion for Hanfu that really sets her apart. “Chinese” clothing is often typified by the qipao (a close-fitting dress also called the cheongsam). Styles from the Tang, Song, and Ming periods are the most popular; flowing robes in beautiful shades, embellished with intricate designs and embroidery. However, Hanfu-which is defined as a type of dress from any era when the Han Chinese ruled-is seen in China as a more authentic form of historical clothing. Right now, the movement is being led by China’s fashion-conscious youth-a little like how Regency-period hair and makeup has had a boost in popularity, thanks to Netflix’s Bridgerton-and the number of Hanfu enthusiasts almost doubled from 3.56 million in 2019 to more than six million in 2020. Among those you’ll find a purist minority who abhor any historical inaccuracies, and a majority who are attracted to its fantastical elements. Meanwhile, designs can cost between 100 yuan (roughly $15.50 ) to over 10,000 yuan ($1550), and bought from specialist brands such as Ming Hua Tang. What is most interesting though, is the collective mood that’s being spurred on by Hanfu-after decades of aspiring to western trends, the younger generation is now possibly looking closer to home for a sense of traditionalism. Hanfu videos have been viewed more than 47.7bn times. So, as interest in traditional cultural pursuits comes back around, is the past becoming cool once more? Here, Vogue meets Shiyin, one of the most popular figures in this rapidly growing subculture, to find out. Shiyin wears a series of three outfits in styles from the Ming period. “The robe comes in a square-neck style with a bu on the front. How did your interest in Hanfu start? “Growing up in Canada, traditional cheongsam I watched Chinese period dramas but I had no idea that Hanfu was a thing or where to buy it. Here, she keeps the hairstyle modern and simple. Why do you think people are attracted to it? “I can’t speak for everyone, but I imagine most get drawn in because it’s pretty. It’s only normal, you buy clothes to look good. However, I continue to wear Hanfu because it gives me confidence in my own culture. In Canada, we had days at school where you could wear national dress, yet as a Chinese person, I had no idea what to wear. Here, a jiaoling robe, referring to the wraparound collar design, in golden weave. “The pattern is called jiu yang qi tai, it features nine sheep and symbolizes luck and prosperity. How did Hanfu become one of your key content pillars? “When I moved back to Shanghai, I worked in gaming. How would you explain the difference between Hanfu, cosplay or role-playing games (RPG)? “They’re all subcultures so people often think they’re the same but they’re actually very different. How historically accurate are most Hanfu designs? Do you think a lot of people are inspired to wear Hanfu after watching popular period dramas? “It’s impossible to quantify, but it definitely has an impact. Gradually, I started creating my own content, and I uploaded a video about wearing Hanfu that became popular so I started producing more. With openings at the front and back, it was originally designed to make horse-riding easier, but this isn’t the reason why it’s called “ma mian” – the actual origins remain unclear. In all three looks, Shiyin wears a ma mian qun, literally “horse face skirt”, a pleated skirt typical of Hanfu. On your channel, you also talk about western fashion brands. Do you see this content as being totally separate from Hanfu? “Not really. The last video was on coins, and I’m planning one on fabrics like cloud brocade (yunjin), shu brocade (shujin), and Su embroidery (suxiu). I have a series called ‘What is luxury? ’, which I started by discussing brands such as Chanel and Louis Vuitton, but now I’m discussing traditional Chinese culture. Do you get a lot of attention wearing historical clothes on the streets? “Not in Shanghai, people wear all sorts, nobody really notices… How does wearing historical dress match with contemporary makeup looks? “I often do traditional hairstyles when shooting, but usually I keep the makeup modern. Once I did Tang-period makeup with very heavy rouge and a partially drawn lip, and most of the comments online were pretty negative. Do you think the next generation will increasingly look towards China’s own cultural traditions? “Hanfu is far from being popularized, but there is definitely a trend towards ‘China chic’. All rights reserved. Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. Calling All Party-Going Cool Girls! 2024 Condé Nast. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast.
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